After climbing a few steps from Surrey Street, guests arrive via a large planted terrace that overlooks a classic London street, lined with Victorian buildings, King’s College and the facade of a disused Tube station. There is a distant view of the Thames.

The restaurant is simply decorated: reclaimed parquet floors, vintage Scandinavian chairs and green leather banquettes, with an open kitchen and a bar at its heart. Artworks by Wolfgang Tillmans and Ragna Bley hang throughout the space, while a patchwork of art posters from the last 40 years lines the bar wall.

The menu follows a straightforward Mediterranean philosophy, built around the best and freshest produce available. Vegetables lead, followed by fish, then meat, with olive oil favoured over butter or cream. Dishes are designed to let the flavours of the ingredients speak. A large open grill dominates the kitchen.